I’m not exactly sure what the right way is to sum up Cambodia. There were highs and lows as there always are, but this country felt different. Maybe it was because I started off doing something wildly sad on the first day. Really, I think it’s because they’re still on the cusp of figuring it out. It could have something to do with the large-scale adoption of western influences, all the way down to American currency. In my opinion, it would feel better if there was a stronger Cambodian personality, or at least a Khmer spin on the foreign aspects they choose to integrate.
There are some really good pieces, but the full puzzle isn’t quite there. Yet.
I found some great places to stay and some even better places to eat. But nearby there was bound to be mounds of dirt or piles of trash. Cleanliness can be chucked into the ‘in progress’ category. Geckos, roaches and rats were seen regularly. It’s something you have to put out of your mind when going to a restaurant. I’m not saying I need pristine surroundings (though the royal palace was a sight to see), but I could’ve avoided a few trips to the can in better circumstances. Although, you know, it wouldn’t be what it is without those elements. A few table ants and a mosquito bite during a meal does enhance the authenticity.
In addition to insect repellant, don’t forget your sunscreen if you’re visiting during the non-rainy months. And remember to budget for drinking water. To say it’s warm would be a massive understatement. Air con was a luxury; a fan was a minimum requirement. Again, part of the experience.
The cultural offerings were stunning to witness. From both sides of the table. The Khmer Rouge history is such an important part of the country’s identity, albeit cripplingly disheartening. Whether it’s recovery from that or general progress, they’re definitely building toward something. Once they get their transit system on track, I think growth will be exponential. I’d be interested to see the difference in 10 years.
As for the main standout, it has to be, unsurprisingly, Angkor Wat. You could easily spend a full week exploring the temples and still have so much left to see. Now, I don’t think a normal person would have the stamina to do it in that heat, but that’s beside the point. I’m having trouble coming up with more to say about it. The collection of structures and carved stone was so vast and impressive that I found myself meandering about. Much like this post.
I can’t finish without mentioning the Khmer people. So positive, so kind. I saw so many faces light up in response to a smile or “Hello.” Hostel staff treated guests like immediate friends. The attitude and character can not only be appreciated, but used as inspiration.
I hope they Seam Reap the benefits of happiness and prosperity. What a segue.
By the Numbers
Days in Cambodia: 13 Tours: 6 Bus Rides: 7 Tuk Tuk Rides: 8 Massages: 1 Temples Visited: Lost Count Angkor Beers: Lost Count KHR Spent: ~1,772,148.00 USD Spent: ~$443.04 (Conversion rate of 4,000)
For those interested in visiting one day, here’s a list of where I went and how I ranked stuff: (click the top left button of the map to expand the list view)
Lastly, below is my “best of” album. This country has a lot more to offer than what I captured but hopefully I’ll be back when I’m a bit more advanced in my photography skills.
The bus/shuttle game in Cambodia is an interesting one. The arrangements and scheduling are all very loose and ill-explained. Some people on the stretch from Kampot to Phnom Penh had tickets and some didn’t. We changed vehicles a few times. We ended up being crammed into a small passenger van for about 5hrs on a drive that should’ve taken 3. Once in PP, it was unclear what our next move was.
Thankfully, it was only an hour until the next ride to Siem Reap. It was another full passenger van. Six more hours of transit with a non-functioning seatbelt and a race car driver insistent on overtaking other vehicles in the opposite lane of traffic.
I arrived nonetheless and my hostel was in walking distance from the drop off point. What a hostel it was as well.
Lub d (whatever that means). The vibe was very welcoming. Awesome amenities with a bar and pool right as you walk in. It seemed social and the staff was incredibly friendly. The dorm rooms and other facilities were super cozy and clean. This place has slotted into my overall top 5 accommodations on the trip. I immediately extended my stay there by one night, partially because the place was sweet and partially because I needed the extra time to organize all of the activities I wanted to do.
Unexpectedly, there was a clan of other Americans also staying at the hostel. By far the most Americans in one place that I’ve encountered on my travels. Kaitlin (29, Maryland) and David (26, Wisconsin) did the free walking tour with me in the morning. The tour was underwhelming and quick but it gave us a chance to get to know each other. David and I hung out for most of the day while Kaitlin did some stuff on her own. We reconvened for a cycling tour of the nearby lotus fields that evening.
Cue several other Americans entering the fray. There was a fleet of westerners on biking through the streets of Siem Reap chatting to one another. It took around 30 minutes to get out of the city. We stopped very briefly in one lotus field and then continued onto a more scenic spot to watch the sunset. We drank a beer with the kind staff while playing Heads Up. Somehow one of them was all about the Friends category and knew everything. It was another guy’s birthday and he sang us a song as the sun dipped below the horizon.
We had another 30 minute ride back to the hostel that destroyed everyone’s asses because of the rock-hard seats. Even in the dark, it was ridiculously hot and humid. It was time for a dip in the pool when we returned. Meet Sara (39, Florida but living in the UK) and Michael (47, Delaware but current nomad). While enjoying our temperate soak in the pool, we decided to coordinate a sunrise tour of Angkor Wat together in the morning.
After that was arranged, we went for dinner as a group and met the birthday boy out at a Pub Street spot for a beverage. X bar had a grungy atmosphere with a decent view of the city. There was also a small half pipe on the 3rd floor. We did our best to behave since we had a 4am wake up call. By that I mean we left at midnight. I ended up trying to stay awake to watch a soccer match which was a poor decision.
The team was responsible and on time in the morning. Props. David, Kaitlin, Sara, Michael and myself comprised the Temple squad. We boarded our tour bus and had our day passes purchased by 5am.
We unloaded at Angkor Wat after some blue had already spilled into the sky. There was a crowd surrounding the reflecting pool but we weaseled our way into the mix and got spots.
The city of temples was overwhelming at first. So many massive 12th century structures to explore. Angkor Wat was built in 37 years which seems insane based on the size, detail, and material needed for construction.
Eventually we went inside and made our way to the third floor by climbing a steep set of stairs. The internal layout was a grid of hallways that led to large, open-air sanctuaries. Incredible. None of the pictures from the day can do any of the buildings justice.
On the way out, David was lightly attacked by a monkey that was after a coconut. Luckily it was a non-rabies altercation.
The second stop, Bayon (The Temple of the Faces), was difficult to enjoy because it was overrun with boisterous Chinese tourists. Everywhere you turned there was either a gaggle of people or a stone-carved face, so part of it was interesting.
Next, we glossed over a site where elephant fights were held, paused for lunch at 10:30am, and briefly scoped a Buddha archway.
The last stop of the tour was Ta Prohm, otherwise known as “the Tomb Raider temple.” Much of this site was in ruins, thanks to several large trees growing right through the middle of everything. Again, the scale was difficult to capture with a camera. I just hope my eyes don’t forget.
Just like that, the tour was done and we were back at Lub d shortly after 12pm. We did so much, but it also felt like it wasn’t enough time.
We had a full day pass, so we negotiated with our awesome tour guide, Vishnu, to take our squad back for an afternoon expedition to visit a few new areas and catch the sunset somewhere.
After individual rest sessions, the 5 of us piled into Vishnu’s tuk tuk and rode back to hot spots.
We had a small hike up to a hilltop temple that offered a good view of the surrounding landscape. Then we had a really worthwhile stop at a temple we had all to ourselves. The lighting and the architecture were a pleasant pairing. We had a fun photo shoot and moved onto another wooded one that was technically closed but we wandered through quickly. Finally, we got to Pre Rup where we witnessed the last gasps of the setting sun before being kicked out.
Vishnu drove us through a very large local market on the way back to the hostel. We were barely able to drag ourselves to dinner before calling it a night.
Most of the next day was a rest and recoup situation for me. I walked around the city for a while in the early afternoon and made a morning bus reservation to head to Battambang. Then it was time to chill more in the AC.
Once the group assembled, I found out that Sara and David were also planning on going to Battambang so we combined forces on a room booking and they got bus tickets like me.
We walked around some of the night markets, had a late last dinner together and then hit the town to have some fun. The hostel was having an organized bar crawl, but we made our own and met up with them for a little bit. In the middle of pub street, there were promoters handing out flyers for free shots everywhere (coincidentally one of them was doing that as a Workaway — good to know for the future). The pamphlet shots became problematic. There were many and they tasted terrible.
We had an odd experience at a place slightly off the grid. Then before I knew it, we were back at X bar. There was dancing, more drinking, a random fire show on the half pipe, and a very overt $30 offer for sex. Nope.
Time evaporated. Either the bar closed or I left. Not entirely sure which. Not entirely sure at what time. I had a dalliance with a local girl and by the time I got back to Lub d it was light outside. I rounded up my packed belongings and successfully managed not to forget anything in my drunken stupor. I was starting to fade in and out when Sara and David came down to join me. We boarded our bus on time and I finished watching Tottenham Hotspur miraculously advance to the Champions League final over cellular data before passing out hard on the bus.
I woke up pretty much in Battambang. Another 3hr trip that took closer to 5. The reduced squad checked into our new digs and went down to get a meal. We sort of got strong-armed into a tour on our way out, but it was all stuff we were planning on doing anyway.
Post lunch, we were taken to the bamboo train, which is basically just a sheet of bamboo propelled by a gas engine. It kind of flew down the tracks. It gave us a chance to see rural Battambang at pace. We stopped in a tourist trap where the highlight was a cute little puppy. Then we tracked back to the beginning.
Next, we went to see thousands of bats flying out of an elevated cave. We also climbed a very eerie hill that had many labyrinths of pathways, abandoned worshiping areas and dissonant music playing from somewhere. There was a killing cave that we never found. But we did brave a slew of monkeys to arrive at a hilltop pagoda with a scenic lookout. The creepiness factor of the entire area, combined with the looming darkness convinced us to bounce after a short time.
Battambang wasn’t much to explore at night. I think we ended up doing the same walk to Street 2.5 about 7 or 8 times. All the interesting cafes and bars weren’t far off that strip.
I caught some sort of bug either at lunch or dinner that kind of sidelined me for the following day. Although we did get a triples, traditional Khmer massage which was worth it — a light deep tissue experience, with loads of pounding and clapping. Somehow I made it through without exploding, which was good.
I was planning to catch a bus to Bangkok after the second night but that didn’t seem in the cards. Sara and David found an interesting “tour of the North” that seemed like a good thing to entertain and do some mending.
We had an early start on Saturday morning. There were supposed to be 8 stops but we only got 6. We survived 500 crocodiles and even got to hold a baby, ate some fresh bamboo sticky rice, nearly vomited at the fish market, saw two temples and a killing field, as well as tried some fresh spring rolls while watching rice paper be made. Definitely a good opportunity to get a glimpse into local life and witness some of the culture of Battambang.
The rest of the day was spent relaxing and making arrangements for our upcoming travels. Myself, Sara, and David had a solid dinner and watched a bit of live music before packing and heading to bed.
I’m currently in the midst of a marathon in-transit day, featuring at least 4 buses/shuttles, a break down, a land border crossing, a can of real BBQ Pringles, purchases in multiple currencies, and 15+ hrs of wheel rolling. I think I’ll make it to my destination. I hope I do…
Cambodia: You’re never far away from the smell of something burning.
That’s my unofficial slogan for the time being.
As compared to Vietnam, there’s less infrastructure (even in the big cities), and it’s far dirtier yet more expensive. On the bright side, the people are happy and helpful. You can get a big smile out of someone with a friendly “Hello.”
So far I’ve spent time in Phnom Penh, the capital, and Kampot. While there are plenty of tuk tuk drivers trying to hook you up with a ride, one refusal is enough to send them on their way.. It seems less touristy than other places, which is kind of curious because most people speak pretty good English and they accept the US Dollar everywhere.
Almost all prices are given in USD actually. That is likely what’s driving up the cost of everything. It’s easiest to work in 25¢ increments so most things are at least $1. Take for example num pang, the Cambodian equivalent of a banh mi. In Vietnam, it was 65¢ for the simple street sandwich. Here, it’s $2.50 for basically the same thing (but this one has a chive chutney and a little more baguette). Also, a standard draft beer will run you $1 in Cambodia whereas you could get it for 20¢ in Vietnam.
Most of you reading this are asking why I’m bickering about a few quarters. Remember that I don’t have an active income…and Europe is next so I need to spend as little as possible. Plus, for good or bad, I’ve always been a pretty frugal guy. That, combined with an extended stay in a country that has the cheapest prices I’ve seen for just about everything (Vietnam), has cemented a low value into my brain. I’m not sure I’ll ever be able to adjust that. I mean, of course I’ll re-acclimate to American prices…but a $12 beer is going to be extra infuriating.
Money complaints aside, there’s something I’m still trying to figure out about Cambodia. It’s not totally clicking. I can’t tell if it’s the lack of development, an obvious system, or another issue. Their alphabet is awesome though. Is that the only thing about Cambodia I’ve liked so far? Maybe. That seems a bit harsh. And I’m cruising through the country pretty quickly so I won’t have a full account of the place.
I have been in awe of two things though: the Genocide Museum and the Killing Fields. This is what I did on my first full day here. A depressingly brutal start.
At the S-21 prison, there were gruesome photos of its final inhabitants, who succumbed to torture, bodies abandoned as the staff fled. Walking into those rooms was heavy. There were walls and walls of prisoner headshots — women and children included. Only a few people survived this particular security unit. Heavy.
The next destination, Choeung Ek, was also a lot to take in. We walked around the site where thousands were brought to face their end. Mass graves. A tree specifically used to kill babies. A place where bone fragments and teeth resurface every year during the rainy season. These are the scenes we’re seeing as we listen to the audio guide retell stories of the Khmer Rouge nightmare in painful detail.
The last stop on the grounds was the memorial stupa that houses over 5,000 skulls. There’s also an identification process showing what weapons were used to kill. It’s unbelievable standing there and realizing that those are all actual human remains. The heaviest. How people could do that to other people…there really are no words.
On a brighter note, I met a nice Italian dude named Davide on the bus to Kampot. We were staying at the same place so we became motorbike partners and toured the area together over two days.
The first day we had a nice ride through a nearby National Park, finding semi-scenic mountain views and a nearly dry waterfall.
At night, we went to the city center to find some dinner. We came across a street vendor selling insects, which is a very common local snack. I’ll tell you what $2 can get you here: a fuck ton of fried bugs. We tried worms, frogs, and crickets — easily the best. It was a strange sensation to fish something out of a bag by its leg and then go straight for the crunch. Gotta be adventurous though. Eventually, you start popping them like any other snack. And you know how you just keep grabbing whatever’s in front of you? That was happening. I had to cut myself off so I wouldn’t hate life later. Flash forward: it wasn’t full on hate, but there was certainly some dislike.
The next morning we got an early start riding through some very rural Cambodian villages to find a slightly underwhelming cave temple. We traversed a few more bumpy dirt roads, said “Hello!” to several giddy school children, and passed by basic houses with at least one water buffalo each. We drove around a “secret lake” in the middle of nowhere. It was definitely hot enough to swim but the promise of leeches was a dealbreaker.
Then, we got to a pepper farm called La Plantation. We were just in time for the free tour so we were shown around the grounds and taught about pepper picking and processing. The green ones become black pepper and the red ones, when skinned, become white pepper. There was a free taste test of many varieties…and I had no water left. “We all cry together,” said our guide. The best I think was the long red pepper. Finally, Davide and I ate at the on-premises restaurant. Absolutely stunning marinated barbecue ribs. Oh my Jesus. Could’ve polished off a full rack of them bad boys.
We waited out a short rainstorm before hopping back on the bike. We conquered the freshly muddy, nearly flooded roads for another 40 minutes before taking a short walk around the small town of Kep. It’s known for the beach and crab market. It must’ve been a weird time though because there weren’t many people or vendors set up yet. There was a large group of under-18s doing a choreographed dance to “Itsy Bitsy Teenie Weenie,” so that was a peculiar scene.
After escaping the twilight zone, it was another 40 minute ride back to our hostel. We spent around 7hrs out in the sun on that damn motorbike. You need a strong core and flexible leg muscles to be bounced around in that position for so long. I don’t have either of those things, so I was feeling it.
A few beers at happy hour helped. It seemed like there were a lot of long-term foreigners living and working in the area. Kind of random because Kampot is a somewhat small riverside town. Plus, it’s the shoulder period heading into the low/wet season so it’s relatively empty. Sounds like it’s easy to get a visa and a job in the country though.
The night market beckoned us at dinner time. We got some noodles and then cruised around the city to see what else it had to offer. There were 3 or 4 hotspots but nothing enticing. I have to imagine half of those places are closing down for a few months soon. It’s hard to tell because I still don’t get Cambodia yet.
Early the next day, it was time for Davide and I to part ways. He was boarding a ferry to a southern island for a Workaway and I was catching a 10hr bus to Siem Reap.
