Category: Thoughts

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Behind the Project: The Audi/MLS Collaboration

Way back in March, I took a brief hiatus from life in Mexico. From life on the road in general. I went back to the U.S. for the first time in over a year and a half. It wasn’t a scheduled visit and it wasn’t a long one.

My friend Nick contacted me in December (I think), asking me to leverage my soccer knowledge to help him brainstorm ideas for an upcoming video he was going to shoot. He works for Audi North America and has been crushing project after project. If you remember, I linked up with him in Munich a while back to lend a hand on some running footage they were shooting with a bunch of exotic models. It eventually turned into this incredible, incredible video: An Avant Story.

So, taking that as the benchmark for this upcoming project, it was obviously a promising situation. The concept was to create an engaging video for MLS that showcased a renewed commitment to their development academies, which Audi has a large part in.

Audi. MLS. Soccer. High end production. Say no more.

As far as I knew at that time, I was only an ideas man. After a few days of refining pieces of the script, combing through inspirational videos, and drumming up various options for plays, I put everything back into Nick’s capable hands. He was preparing to welcome a new baby into the family, so there was a bit of a crunch to tackle production and post.

A good 2 months went by.

I hadn’t heard anything new, so I figured the spot was close to finished or ready to debut. Suddenly, I get a message asking, “Are you available and do you like money?” The answer to both is always yes.

Within the course of an afternoon, I was booked on the shoot — round-trip airfare and the lot. Production was beginning in less than a week. Turns out, this was Nick’s first project back after the baby.

I landed in D.C. on a sunny day in early March. Immediate culture shock…in my own country. No matter. As I found my bearings, we hit the ground running.

My role was a very unique marriage between soccer choreographer and on-set editor. We shot for 4 days in and around D.C. United’s academy practice fields as well as in their brand-new stadium. Aptly named Audi Field.

The first part of the shoot contained all of the major soccer components. First, we worked with the U-13 players. It was a balancing act drawing up plays for kids without knowing their exact ability. During production, you always expect to run behind due to arranging setups, additional coverage, or technical difficulties. Knowing that, we couldn’t waste any more time reworking the soccer parts because they were too complex. Even though we went into the shoot with this mindset, we got a little carried away about a few particular moments that excited us visually. Surprisingly, the U-13 kids were a knock out. Their talent was exceptional and they were pin-point on what we needed from them. We encountered more difficulty from the older U-19s, albeit their plays and our camera moves were significantly more complex. Either way, the material we were capturing was looking saucy as hell.

After two incredibly cold, damp, and late nights in the stadium, we packed it up and transitioned to Richmond. I changed hats to prep things for editing while we filmed the more contextual, storytelling elements.

In between production hours, I was able see friends and family for a bit which was great. Not long enough of course, but I was meant to return in a month, so even though it was short, it was a nice stop-gap.

As the shoot came to a close, I was a reinvigorated person. Familiar faces, fulfilling work, and a long-awaited taste of home. Being in that environment was definitely a soul-replenisher. In addition, it was a reminder of the talent, capability, and influence that my friends and family inject into my life.

About a week after I returned to Mexico, the coronavirus exploded. Unsurprisingly, it affected the postproduction of the video as well as just about everything else in the world. You would think it would make the editing process easier. However, with companies temporarily closing and full-time stay-at-home situations, resources were more difficult to come by.

Nick and I continued to collaborate for a few weeks following the wrap of the shoot. We chiseled the :60 version into something. Though it was still a work in progress, I felt that something was missing. It wasn’t quite having the resonating strength and impact that I imagined while watching the monitors during filming. It was difficult to nail down why.

We arrived at a place where we needed to let the visual effects team take over and do their work. Yeah, by the way, everything we shot in the stadium was without a crowd. So to make it feel like a real game scenario, a vfx team was going to create the environment. Insane. But as mentioned, they were sidelined for a time because of COVID-19. Naturally.

Once again, a period of time went by where quarantine life was moving along and the project slowly drifted out of mind.

Cut to earlier this month — it’s July now — when Nick sent me a link to the nearly-finished video. Boom. The combination of sfx, sound design, and fine tuning had delivered the potential that was there during production.

After a few more patient days or weeks (who really knows anymore), it’s finally live and ready to be shared. Not to mention, it is airing twice during every MLS game this season, or whatever you want to call ranges of time during this era.

The video below is the long-form version that allows some moments to develop and land. I can proudly say it’s the best thing I’ve ever done professionally. Awesome to see that growth, but it will definitely be difficult to top. Unlimited thanks go out to Nick, Tilt Creative + Production and the production and post teams for the dedicated and creative work that went into this beauty.

Enjoy!

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Pueblos Mágicos

You’re the rabbit; we’re the hat.
Live your own prestige.
Experience something extraordinary.
Disappear from the normal everyday.
Reappear in the splendor here.
Discover our secrets.
It’s your turn.
Our logo is a pinwheel.

That is not a random poem. Taken individually, each line represents a possible slogan for the Pueblos Mágicos (Magic Towns) in Mexico. This was an initiative started in 2001 by the country’s board of tourism to enchant certain towns. Or something to that effect. Is it a clever branding scheme to elicit extra money and dump it into otherwise ho-hum economies? Perhaps. But there’s actually some value there.

While the program has designated 121 Pueblos Mágicos scattered across Mexico, not every one is a home run. Obviously. I’m looking at you Jalpan de Serra. [Never been there.] However, there is a list of criteria a town must meet in order to qualify for the elite club. For starters, each village needs to have some sort of historical significance or folklore. Additionally, it must offer either important festivals, traditions, handcrafts, cuisine, art, or nature element. Per the ever-important numbers aspect, each place must have a population of at least 5,000, host more than 20,000 tourists each weekend, and be less than a 3 hour drive from a “well-resourced” city.

Before doing any research, I thought I had visited 4. That number is accurate but for different reasons than I initially understood. Teotihuacan is part of the group, which added an unexpected +1 in the “been there” column, but I had a -1 for something else.

San Miguel de Allende

It had my vote for the best PM so far, but was actually removed from the list in 2008 because it became an UNESCO World Heritage site. Still, it’s a rad place so it deserves some praise.

Centered around La Parroquia, an epic cathedral, the town square and surrounding streets feature an array of oranges, accented by building walls and items for sale in various shops. Flower crowns have surpassed the declaration of novelty accessory, though they continue to enhance the style of the ladies wearing them.

By far the most impressive attributes of the city are the 120+ art galleries and 160+ restaurants/cantinas — basically between every crack in the cobblestones. You can walk down a seemingly pointless path to end up admiring a slew of sculptures or paintings. Even though it’s possible to thoroughly traverse the main downtown area in a few hours, you’ll need a few days to scratch the surface of the dining and art gazing opportunities. There might even be a minute gallery under your pillow if you look close enough.

Each street provides a warm vibe that encourages wandering. Things will come to you as well. After Michelle and I enjoyed the elevated scenic view, we were enveloped by a mariachi wedding procession. It was a partying parade, complete with donkey and mojigangas (larger than life, paper mache versions of the bride and groom). I guess we could have pretended we belonged and followed them to the reception. Next time.

That might be the only negative (or positive depending on how you look at it). People are aware of San Miguel’s grandeur so I imagine the crowds are stifling during peak times. I recently saw an acquaintance from high school got married there. Also, it’s apparently a John Mayer concert destination. That one was a little confusing. Regardless of the popularity, it’s a must see.

Cholula

Next, in order of visitation. It was just a few days before Christmas, but plenty warm enough for a t-shirt. Once more, the main focus was a church. Santuario de la Virgen  de los Remedios is perched atop a hill as well as a pyramid, somehow hidden from Spanish conquerors, if memory serves. Facts I wish I knew when I was there: it is the largest known pyramid that exists today. Yet it was hidden from invaders? Well played, you guys.

One spectacular thing about the cathedral is the view of the surrounding area, including Popocatépetl, the active volcano nearby. Of course, the pictures advertised were epic and showcased both in breathtaking fashion. It required a drone. There was disappointment.

Just below Our Lady of Remedies was an artisan market and a square of cafes and street vendors. Two different ceremonies were happening simultaneously. I think one was some kind of Aztec sacrifice. I’m not even sure how to describe it. There was a fire, massive feathered headdresses, and a circle of white-cloaked swordsmen. I kept a safe distance amidst my curiosity.

The other was the dance of the flyers. It’s a ritual that was created to ask the ancient Gods to end droughts. I have a feeling nowadays it is performed strictly as a money maker, but it was still cool to watch. Four people climbed a 100ft pole and then jumped off the top, spinning and dancing as they returned to the ground. Their costumes kind of looked like acrobatic pirates if that does anything for you.

Atlixco

Again, it was just before Christmas and it was night time. The key attraction was the Illuminated Village. Think of a tacky lights tour, concentrated mostly in one avenue but with a sliver more taste. I don’t know how many bulbs were used in total. We can just call it a fuck ton. What I do know is that the streets were shoulder to shoulder.

There were various sections of the town that had slightly unique decorations, primarily to keep the attention of smaller kids. There was a stretch that gave me the spirit for a very brief 5 seconds before 12 drunk people dominated everything.

The highlight: 2 cool staircases.

I think it’s a pass from me, unfortunately. But perhaps it is better during non-holiday times.

Tepoztlan

Our most recent trip brought us to the birthplace of the feathered serpent. Legend says that the people worshipped the Gods of wind, rain, and pulque until they stopped responding. The village elders went to consult the mountain and decided it was time to exchange those Gods for the Christian one. The moment they converted to Catholicism.

I guess.

There is a steep, 1.25 mile trail leading to a clifftop where an Aztec pyramid remains. Michelle and I had every intention of making the hour and half climb up to catch that view. The thing is, it was so damn hot the day we went. Plus, it was the middle of the day. So, you know…that plan transformed into street mojitos.

It gave us time to comb through the extensive tianguis, which was basically the entire town? I mean, the market hugged both sides of practically every street. For sure, the rustic vendor stands complimented the mountain backdrop quite well.

Contrary to the YouTube travel vlogs we watched before the trip, the vibe of the town was exceptional. It’s definitely small and wouldn’t require more than 1 or 2 nights to explore to your heart’s content, but worth a go. The mixture of history, handcrafts, and nature makes for a satisfying excursion.

So, at a measly 3% completion rate, I have a decent task of creating a respectable record of Pueblos Mágicos visits. At least now I know what to look out for. And though it’s far from comprehensive, now you have an idea as well.

Don’t mention it.

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Transitions

Normal life. Or the semblance of one. What does it involve? How does it function?

It was time to remember.

From the moment I landed in Mexico in November, I had already begun transitioning out of the nomadic lifestyle I was accustomed to. Now, I had to get adventurous in a different way: returning to the familiarity of a steady routine, a consistent bed, and the possibility of an expanded wardrobe.

Michelle and I were renting a room in a house together. Within a few days, I had keys and a public transportation card. I went grocery shopping at Walmart. I moved my clothes into drawers and a closet. Normal life.

Did I experience anxiety about relinquishing travel-filled days for a more settled space? No. Even though I was reencountering facets of ordinary life, there was still plenty to explore in the way of Mexico City.

My discovery process of this expansive place has been slow but continuous. “Poco a poco” as they would say. With a dozen popular neighborhoods, over 150 museums and parks, and an increasing landscape of restaurants, markets, and monuments, it’s a matter of years, not days. Museo de Antropologia, Bosque de Chapultepec, and Zócalo are a few obvious picks for top attractions. Though I imagine a lifelong resident still discovering lesser known gems well into old age.

Speaking of age, you will find plenty of history in and around the city as well. Whether it be Mesoamerican cities and pyramids, Aztec temples, or ruins unearthed during new metro line construction, there’s plenty of fascinating relics from bygone times. You know, like when human sacrifice and the worshiping of a feathered serpent deity were all the rage.

Nowadays, weekly feminism protests, tortillas with every meal, and bluetooth headphones are more commonplace.

The regularity of protests or marches are necessary since the machismo mindset is rampant. The fight is about general safety and respect, let alone equal treatment. Kidnappings and murders are still a frequent occurrence countrywide that the government neglects. While Mexico City is one of the more progressive locales, the large liberal population continue to have trouble making a noticeable impact. Hopefully there is a breakthrough soon.

On a lighter note: street vendors everywhere. What do you want? You can find it just a few paces away. There are mobile carts making sweets, juices, or tortas; bikes selling basket tacos, corn snacks, or accessories; stands (or the hoods of cars) for bootlegged DVDs, tchotchkes, and clothing. But don’t worry. If that’s not enough, the hustlers will come to you. On the subway, people will go train to train selling miscellaneous gum, charging cables or Jesus. Miscellaneous Jesus, everybody. 

Combine all of these things into one and you’ve got a tianguis — a street market that happens weekly in each community. It’s a great place to buy your produce, eat a delectable al pastor pambazo, or find those random cleaning supplies you forgot you needed. The first time I went, my head was on a swivel because there were too many things to observe. The same can be said for the vibrant artisanal markets scattered throughout CDMX. My favorite is La Ciudadela because it’s a labyrinth, jam-packed with colorful handcrafts. Hot tip: it’s the perfect place to knock out all of your Christmas shopping. Next on the list would be La Lagunilla, which is more of an unspoken fiesta of alcohol and food. You know people can crush an unwind sesh when it’s 2pm on a Sunday and you have to weave through a sea of drunkards and heavy waft of weed every 5 minutes. Hey, I don’t have the self-control to deny a 2×1 michelada special either.

Another rich sensory experience are all of the sounds of the city. The base layer, is of course, construction. A soft hum. On top of that, every few hours a car will drive by blaring a recorded message about buying your broken shit. The melody is permanently etched in my brain. I’m also familiar with the bell for trash pickup. The most grating though, is a two-phase, extremely high pitched whistle made by the exhausted steam from the caramelized bananas dessert guy. In addition, you can enjoy an impromptu three-song concert while eating lunch on a patio. It’s a diverse soundscape with so much character.

To try to better understand it all (and improve myself), I started taking Spanish classes at the beginning of the year. I knew nothing apart from random idioms (mi casa es su casa) and a Duolingo stint that barely scratched the surface. But the prospect of having a second language was and is exciting. I heard somewhere that if you know English and Spanish, you can communicate with like 80% of the world. That’s solid. Still, it’s a process. After 8 weeks and several mind explosions, I’m…somewhere. Further along than I was, definitely. I had an awesome teacher and group of fellow students. However, speaking and listening are everyday hurdles. Puedo entender más, pero necesito años para comunicar una idea. The concept of rapid immersion learning baffles me. Can I blame it on me being past my prime? A possible excuse. Really, I just need more time to absorb and discover.

Normal life.

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In Summary: Europe

If you ask me to pick my favorite memory from my adventure through Europe, I would stare at you as if defective. I was there for almost 6 months. That period of time exists in my mind as a blurred frenzy of history, Flixbus, walking tours, water, Oktoberfest, and, strangely (but deliciously) kebabs. Add them all together and I think I had a relatively well-balanced tour of customs and shenanigans.

The amount of Europe I traversed would maybe cover approximately one third of the US. But within that space, each country basically has their own distinct language and culture. I spent the majority of my days between The Netherlands, Germany, and Poland — I’ll expand a bit on those.

The Dutch lead a very free spirit existence, obviously, but it’s not just because they’re high everyday. They like to go about life in an uncomplicated way. Plus, they’re fit because of all the biking they do. In additional to the ample cycle paths, the canals also create a beautiful layout to the city. Each street seems to have a unique character based on either the length, width, or bridges that surround the water.

There’s more nature to enjoy in the many parks scattered throughout. Lying in a green space soaking up the sun is a super chill way to spend an afternoon. Obligatory mention of weed again. If art is more your speed, you’ll be spoiled for choice in terms of museums; you can visit Rijks, Van Gogh, and Rembrandt. I was in a period of adjusting to the Euro so I didn’t partake myself, which is an unfortunate fact of life. It just means there’s a plethora of fresh activities waiting for me when I return. Amsterdam tops my list of cities I would most like to live if I ever move to Europe.

With all of that being said, I found the German culture the easiest to acclimate to. Even though you can find more structure and efficiency in the mundane — the checkout line in the grocery store for example — the charms of the cities and neighborhoods reminded me more of home. I settled into a routine there quite quickly. It was comfortable to hang out in the “alternative” areas of St. Paul in Hamburg or Kreuzberg in Berlin. The street murals and dive bars were a welcome reflection of the artistic vibe I’m used to.

Maybe my affinity for beer is to blame, but to me, one of the best features is the ability to drink publicly in open spaces while enjoying the company of friends. The beer prices are pretty absurd too. I mean, you can get a .5L can for around €.30 and recycle it for a €.25 refund. So…you’re just about breaking even. It was a different story at Oktoberfest, however, where a stein was almost €13. For more on that drunken carnival, you can read this post.

Onto Polska, the land of gołąbki and pierogi. The history of this place is a vicious rollercoaster of invasion, brief independence, and occupation once again. Thus, resilience is a common characteristic of the people. I’ll add resourcefulness and tenacity to the mix as well. I’m pretty sure every Polish grandmother has a hardy exterior with a compassionate interior. One thing is for sure: they want you to be well-fed. I volunteered at a language camp in the countryside for a week and the 3 ladies in the kitchen were constantly plopping an extra portion on my plate. I tried to convince them I was a little fat with a complete absence of muscle but, you know, the language barrier and such.

On top of teaching English to the intelligent and charismatic youth of the country, I also worked at a hostel for a month in Krakow.

What a city.

I have trouble expressing the feeling of walking among the cobbled streets and stone walls of the old town. Suffice to say I was excited to just meander. It was like wandering through history with the amenities of the future. I don’t think you can find that combination anywhere in the U.S. Krakow might seem like kind of a hipster pick of European cities to visit, but it’s starting to make some lists. I can’t help but recommend it as well.

Another very on-the-grid tourist hot spot I visited was Prague. It has been widely discussed as a popular destination for good reason. Besides the architecture and vibe, which parallel Krakow somewhat, there are various unique attractions. I found the bridges and Prague castle mesmerizing. Six hours of exploring and taking pictures evaporated in a flash there.

The same can be said for Zadar and Split, a pair of Croatian coastal towns on the Adriatic Sea. The old forums and slender network of streets in the historic centers boasted a Romanic feel. And romantic. I’ll say it. Unfortunately, I was a little late for sailing season, but sunsets from shore were still absolute perfection.

Even though the sun has now set (for now) on my expedition through the Old Continent, I think my favorite memory is that I have so many to reminisce on: the weight of my backpack changing as I took out my camera; the way a group of fellow hostel-stayers assembled to enjoy a night out; the realization that I was standing atop historical significance; the subtle burn on my forehead as the sun reflected off the water; the atmosphere of a specific location that swept me away. This period of my life will always be marked by the liberation and influence of these experiences. That is the essence of travel.

By the Numbers

Days in Europe: 169
Countries Visited: 7
Cities Visited: 15
Days at Workaways: 58
Days Housesitting: 17
Social Network Meetups: 9
Euros Spent: ~€4476.02
USD Spent: ~$5016.70

Here’s the map of things I did in Germany, as it was the most extensive:
(click the top left button of the map to expand the list view)


Favorite Cities:
1. Amsterdam
2. Krakow
3. Prague
4. Ghent
5. Berlin
6. Split
7. Hamburg
8. Brussels
9. Zagreb
10. Sarajevo

Favorite Attractions:
1. Oktoberfest, Munich
2. Brown Bars of Brussels
3. Main Square, Krakow
4. Prague Castle, Prague
5. Vondelpark, Amsterdam
6. The Metronome, Prague
7. Old Town, Mostar
8. Plitvice Lakes, Croatia
9. East Side Gallery, Berlin
10. Elbphilharmonie, Hamburg

Favorite Walking Tours:
1. Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina
2. Amsterdam, Netherlands
3. Alternative Tour, Berlin, Germany
4. Hamburg, Germany
5. Zadar, Croatia
 Favorite Museums:
1. Oskar Schindler Enamel Factory
2. Ghent Museum of Design
3. Auschwitz + Auschwitz II Birkenau
4. Museum of Broken Relationships
5. SMAK

Lastly, below is an album of what I deemed to be the best photos taken during this leg of the journey.

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In Summary: Morocco

I’m not sure what was more uncomfortable, standing there knowing I was being scammed (twice) or peeing out of my butt for two days in a row. Either way, it was all happening in Morocco.

Distilling the essence of “The Western Kingdom” is difficult since I had such a mixed experience, not to mention I was only there for 12 days. My exposure to the country was limited to the specific cities and activities I did.

To start with, I was inundated with shades of orange among the dirt roads and walls of the old cities. That ever-present color palette created the perception of sandy air. It’s like there was a desert nearby or something.

Even though I didn’t have enough time for a proper trip out to the Sahara, I saw a decent amount of barren landscapes on day excursions and train rides. Side note:  public transportation a la buses and trains was surprisingly simple and reliable. However, certain passenger trains had small cabins with two rows of seats facing each other. That was quite crammed, when you factor in that many people ignore their ticketed seat assignment and sit wherever they feel like. That being said, my trips were more or less on time and adhered to the estimated duration.

Back to the architecture. The construction of the medinas seemed drab at first, but unique patterns started to reveal themselves upon closer look. The sophisticated detail of mosques and palaces was a joy to admire. Small elements showcased the French, Spanish and Portuguese influences. Outside the kasbahs, modern museums, apartments, and sport complexes were sprouting up in the larger cities. The contrast must be confusing for birds flying overhead.

Apart from the buildings, the souks are a congested tapestry of handmade figurines, colorful spices, knockoff apparel, and…well, tapestries. Though these markets are oft crowded and a risk for pickpockets, each walk through provides an opportunity to see, hear, or smell something new. Continually discovering new stalls, listening to painful negotiations, and inhaling the scent of freshly blended citrus was like being part of a complex ecosystem. I can’t count how many times I was called “Ali Baba” either. Apparently it means “strong man” or  something in that ball park. But the definition was given to me by a guy running a scam, so I’m not sure he was a reliable source. Besides the flattering nickname, I was called Spanish, Italian, German, and even Chinese at one point. There’s a first time for everything, I guess.

Speaking of the people, this is another area where I’m hot and cold. The proprietors of the hostel I stayed in were incredibly generous, intelligent and interesting. Their easygoing vibe set a good standard at the beginning of my time in Marrakech.

From there, my impression began to deteriorate. In the streets and souks, I feel like they saw foreigners as walking dirham. While one vendor could be aggressive about getting your business, another would stand firm on an outlandish price. If it wasn’t someone trying to sell you something, it was a deceitful “friend” attempting, and sometimes succeeding, at wrapping you up in an elaborate con.

One contingency of people that were completely pleasant were the ex-pats. In every city I visited, there seemed to be a healthy community of middle-aged French or Spanish couples. Perhaps they’re content with life because they moved to a place where their retirement money will have a longer runway. Regardless, both groups are navigating the mixture of cultures with class.

*Mint tea photo courtesy of Jud Mason

To end on a high note, I have to mention the cuisine. I’m talking about tajine. I’m talking about cous cous. I’m talking about mint tea. I was either unfamiliar or uninterested in all of those things before my visit. Now, I’m an avid fan. It doesn’t get much better than spiced meat and vegetables slow-cooked in a special clay pot. As a shocking revelation, mint tea was the preferred beverage of choice between my friend Jud and I. Not beer. Somehow not beer. I can’t forget about the abundance of shawarma as well. Always delicious, occasionally detrimental to the digestive tract. It was a staple meal for us, while also being ridiculously affordable.

The cost of food and beverage in Morocco is actually an interesting topic — there was an incredible range in price depending on the establishment. It’s not groundbreaking that street meat was cheap, around $2.50 USD for a wrap with fries and tea. Alternatively, a meal at a nicer restaurant was closer to $15-$20. Still a reasonable price when you compare that to an outing back home, but it’s expensive when you’re on a traveler’s budget. Lastly, a liter of beer was over $10. Hey, I never said I didn’t have any beer. That’s almost an Oktoberfest rate and I found it absurd. It went down easy though.

So, now you might be asking yourself if I would recommend a trip to Morocco. Honestly, it’s difficult to say. Just because I had a mediocre experience doesn’t mean everyone will. I know people that have thoroughly enjoyed themselves. I will say this: my next jaunt to Africa will be elsewhere. Maybe I would have a different opinion if I had more beer and less diarrhea.

By the Numbers

Days in Morocco: 12
AirBnBs: 3
Public Transportation Rides: 10
Camel Rides: 1
Medinas Visited: 4
Barbershops Seen: Infinite
MAD Spent: ~$3,889.71
USD Spent: ~$403.24 (Conversion rate of 9.646)

You can see my full cost breakdown here.

For those interested in visiting one day, here’s a list of where I went and how I ranked stuff:
(click the top left button of the map to expand the list view)


Favorite Attractions:
1. Kasbah of the Udayas
2. Bahia Palace
3. Hassan II Mosque
4. Essouira Medina
5. Jemaa el Fna

Favorite Restaurants/Bars:
1. Triskala
2. Adwak
3. Kabana
4. La Sqala
5. Blue Berry

Lastly, below is an album of what I deemed to be the best photos taken during this leg of the journey.

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Happy Anniversary

One year away from home. Actually, a few days longer, but who’s counting?

It was a thrilling prospect before I left. Uncharted territory. Like landing on the moon. Ok. Obviously not that significant. But, still a leap into the unknown. After being gone so long, the concept of home has changed. Life on the road has essentially morphed into my “normal.” So I guess it’s a battle of two adages: “home is where the heart is” or “home is where you hang your hat.” If we’re going by the former, it’s still Richmond. If we’re going by the latter…well, damn. I have been wearing hats a lot. And they’ve been hanging in so many different places. Counting the number of beds I’ve slept in over the past year would take a full day, so we’re going to have to settle for “heaps.”

As a person that loves the order and comfort of my own space, I’ve adapted as well as can be expected to messy hostels, a consistently uninteresting wardrobe, and living out of a backpack. Either I’ve relaxed the desire to control my environment (thus developing lazier habits) or I’m able to recognize that the situation is mostly temporary so I don’t sink effort into changing it for a day. I think my mindset would be different if I knew it was more permanent. The only way to know for sure is to make an assessment after I’ve returned.

By far, the most repetitive conversation I’ve had over my travels is: 

  • What’s your name? 
  • Where are you from?
  • How long have you been traveling?
  • Where have you been?
  • Where are you heading next?

I’ve considered getting the answers tattooed on myself. The frequency is somewhat painful, but it does lead to some worthwhile interactions with fellow travelers. The contacts list in my phone has definitely exploded. To be fair, I’m not communicating with all of them, but there’s about a dozen people I will continue to stay in touch with and likely meet up with again on my journey.

It’s impossible to list the incredible experiences I’ve had during this year abroad. Multi-day excursions, summit views, and activities…or entire locales that have taken me well outside of my comfort zone. As is the case with time, the memories are becoming fuzzier. Is my recall just bad or is it a universal problem for everyone? It seems next to impossible to vividly remember the exact details of a particularly great event. I can pinpoint some of the colors and shapes, but the reason or emotion is harder to summon. Even though they’re not totally gone, losing part of the shine on some these adventures already means it’ll be that much harder to relive in the future. I guess it’s somewhat of a conundrum trying to stack new memories on top of the old ones for fear of completely forgetting the past. Thankfully I can at least retrace the bread crumbs through some pictures and video.

One thing I haven’t grown out of is being a slave to money. I mean, I don’t have a dedicated budget, but I’m constantly choosing the cheapest possible option for almost every meal and accommodation. In retrospect, I think I went too fast and loose in New Zealand and Australia. I told myself before I left that I wouldn’t turn down an experience because of cost and I haven’t necessarily stuck to that principle. Now that I’m in Europe, I’ve got to be much more strategic with spending. Eliminating solo beers and unnecessary trips to the bar has helped. Also, lining up Workaways and housesits keeps the cash from flying out of my pocket.

While the volunteering opportunities have been good for my wallet, they’ve also given me a lot more down time. I’ve noticed a general malaise creeping up recently. I don’t think it’s a lack of energy because I’ve been getting decent sleep in the ever-changing beds. It might be a lack of motivation, though. For the past month or so, I’ve been coasting — very passive about exploring new areas and making decisions that stimulate the soul. I certainly recognize that I’m in a privileged situation to be able to travel like this, so I need to shake it off.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m still thoroughly enjoying my time. I haven’t felt an inescapable thrall to return home yet.

Yet.

Perhaps it’s coming. Maybe the lack of lifestyle consistency is starting to take a toll. Or I just need to test the boundaries again. Time to challenge myself again. I’m on a quest for the invigorating and it’s going to be awesome.

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Düsseldorf & Hamburg

A big ole bag of dirty laundry. That’s basically what I was for the 3 weeks I spent in Düsseldorf. I mean, I took showers. Mostly. But I did next to nothing apart from feed a pseudo-annoying cat that had more of a weird jungle growl than a meow.

It was my first experience using Trusted Housesitters as a travel tool. It’s definitely handy to find free accommodation, sometimes for weeks or months at a time. For those of you interested in using it yourselves for upcoming trips or petsitting needs, here’s a referral link.

I almost totally forgot that I took a super quick 2-day trip to Munich to PA on an Audi shoot with my friend Nick and our old company. I honestly can’t believe it worked out even though it more resembled whiplash than a chance for buddies to catch up. But, I’ll absolutely take what I can get. Amazing to see a familiar face. 

Transition back to Düsseldorf and me punishing some Netflix. I’m simultaneously embarrassed and impressed at my sustained stamina for those marathons.

The Dorf was a semi small city but I’m sure I still skipped a decent amount. I did develop a nice rhythm of grocery shopping in Aldi every 3rd day. After one trip, I was able to get out of there without anyone knowing I wasn’t German, largely thanks to Apple Pay.

In terms of productive activities, I did take a walking tour of the downtown area. I visited a museum that was all about life in Düsseldorf during the Nazi regime. I also spent one night out drinking in the Altstadt which has a street that’s been coined “the longest bar in the world.” There a few breweries known for their alt bier — you guessed it, a specialty of the region. Customarily, it’s served in a small cylindrical glass and they just automatically bring large trays around to replenish the empties unless they’re asked to stop. A local told me that 16-20 glasses was a proper night out. I didn’t get near that number but I also never properly tried.

Could it have been done? Possibly.
Should it have been done? No.
It wasn’t my favorite style of beer, so the cost-benefit analysis wasn’t lining up.

Aside from wandering around a few neighborhoods, I got invited to the Trivago Summer Party. It was an all-inclusive bash for employees but I lucked into a ticket through my Altstadt drinking buddy, Kamila. Free food and bev. What’s up?? They even had a cheese course. They also waited until 8pm to roll out the liquor, a smart scheduling method to ensure people didn’t get housed too early in the evening.

That basically sums up Düsseldorf. I’d be happy to go back, but I think other places might have more to pique the interest.

On my way out of town, while standing on the platform, my train got canceled 5 minutes after it was scheduled to depart. It didn’t take much to sort out a fix, but it was a bit complex without cell phone minutes or an internet connection.

Either way, I eventually boarded a 4 hour train bound for Hamburg – the biggest city in northern Germany and the 3rd biggest city in the world for musicals. Who knew?

On my first full day, I took another free walking tour. I will forever do this as an easy way to learn the layout, history and current recommendations for whatever city.

In addition to musicals, Hamburg is known for its port (so a lot of water and ships), the Reeperbahn (a street with bars and adult night life where The Beatles notably got their start), and maybe the anti-establishment philosophy of St. Pauli.

I primarily stayed outside of the city center, so I got very familiar with a particular walking loop. I passed the town hall square, the warehouse district and the harbor promenade on several occasions. I also went inside the newly renovated concert hall which cost almost a billion Euros but was free to enter. It had an insanely long escalator but a really nice wrap-around viewing deck of the water.

Another unique attraction was the old tile pedestrian tunnel that runs under the river. It’s something like 60 ft deep and 1,200 ft long. It seems like there’s always someone in there too.

One day, I stumbled onto the FC St. Pauli stadium. This is a team in the soccer world that’s had a very progressive reputation since they formed in 1910. I was really excited to get a tour and gobble up some more of that sweet foundation. Unfortunately, the entire thing was in German. I got a few seldom tidbits of private translation. Millerntor, the stadium, was named after a gate that separated that area of Germany from Denmark’s territory. Also, it’s fan owned, anti-fascist, and LGBTQ friendly. A slogan for the team translates to “No Man is Illegal,” which I love. Lastly, the teams walk out to “Hells Bells” by AC/DC (I’m pretty sure).

For an obligatory night out, I met up with a girl named Anne who took me around the Reeperbahn but to the more local dive bar spots. Miraculously, I avoided being harassed by a lady of the night or strip club promoter the whole time I was in Hamburg. Aces.

Overall, I got a very comfortable feeling from the HH. Once again, it’s a city with the right balance of nature, nightlife and artsy neighborhoods that could be a great spot to live. At some point, I’m going to have to put together a list of how all of these places are ranked.

It’s been almost a full year since I left Richmond. It’s safe to say I’m losing my sense of “home.” Maybe it’s been gone for a while or it’s adapted to a feeling of transience. The lack of consistent routine is an understatement. Not knowing what I’m doing from day to day is one thing — a lot of room for unlimited possibilities in there — but it’s also gotten a bit daunting to try and snatch plans out of thin air. Researching, exploration, decisiveness. I know it’s one of those privileged complaints. I’m not saying I’m over the journey because I still love it. However, I’ve definitely recognized that my momentum has come to a halt and the motivation to push the boulder back up the hill is a work in progress. It’ll be nice to either find a renewed purpose or erase the concept from my head all together.

After I spend a week in Berlin, I’ve got almost 2 months of Workaways lined up. I’m stoked about the prospects. It should be a solid kickstart.

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High, I’m in Amsterdam

It’s an interesting travel tactic to land at one airport (Brussels) and immediately get on a bus to another airport (Amsterdam). But that’s where I was meeting up with Andrew so that’s what happened.

I wasn’t anticipating it being a massive transit hub and shopping facility. There was a brief game of messaging on spotty WiFi mixed with hide and seek. We reunited underneath the orange stock car and all was well.

We quickly found out how easy public transportation was in Amsterdam. We rode the train one stop before we were at Centraal Station. From there we caught a short, free ferry across the river to Noord where we were staying.

We settled in and took it easy for a bit since we were both shrugging off long journeys. It was around 4pm when we hopped back on the ferry and started our exploration of the city center.

A bike shop owner advised us which direction to walk to see the pretty parts of Amsterdam (avoiding the touristy spots), and also threw in a coffee shop recommendation.

Soon, we learned that most joints are actually spliffs aka gross. Lesson #1.

Andrew and I continued our stroll through the western part of the city. It was a sunny day and as with most sunny days, the feeling was good. Based on a very brief exposure to the city, I was getting that familiar feeling — I could see myself living here. Beautiful old buildings lining picturesque canals. Water and greenery. People happily walking their dogs and riding past on bikes. These are no doubt attributes I value in a place to live. But I’ve felt that about several places on this journey. I wonder if that’s my brain sending signals it’s ready to settle back down or just the excitement of a new location. Either way, I could recognize a community fixed on a foundation of openness and nature. Trust me, this was before any herbal effects kicked in.

Anyhow, we found a street where people were eating outside and we decided to grab a bite. FYI – an Amsterdam pancake is about the size of a medium pizza. Intense.

Eventually our wandering led us into the tourist section, which was interesting in its own right. We located another coffee shop where we split a space cake. Trying to be cautious. Lesson #2: they are quite tasty. And a whole one will be ok for one person.

We unintentionally stumbled upon the Red Light District. It was still turning on but what we did see wasn’t what I envisioned it to be. There was a lot more variety in age and size of the women in the windows. Many of them were yawning or just looking at their phones. It was uncomfortable how they were objects behind glass for everyone to stare at. Moreover, it was sad how bored they were with it all. Later on, there were women more active in wooing Johns off the street. I’m not even sure if I should call guys that. I don’t know what the “menu” of services offered is or anything.

There were official porno shows as well. I think they were more or less the same as a Thailand ping pong show. You watch the novelty skills and then live sex for €50 or something. We passed on that, but we did take a few puffs of a pure j and go into a €2 peep show. It was an octagon of small rooms where everyone watched a striptease. Not all that interesting.

It was still light out at 10pm which was really throwing off the circadian rhythm. We snaked our way around several more streets before heading back to the ferry. We got some late night snacks and shared some giggles before bed.

The next morning was a bit of a slow start after shedding some jet lag.

There was a public transportation strike which meant none of the ferries were running. And there was no pedestrian bridge across. We walked farther into north Amsterdam to rent bikes. It was a very industrial warehouse district that was being reclaimed by artists, .

It was necessary to cycle at some point while here because the city was made for it. There’s around 1.1 million people in the metropolitan area and over 800,000 bikes. Other people have told me it’s a 3:1 ratio of bikes to people. We were also warned that cyclists were more dangerous than cars. Here’s some other fun facts about bikes in Amsterdam.

Riding amongst people that do it everyday was a reminder of what poor shape I’m in. We had to go through a long tunnel to get to the city and there were elderly women easily cruising past me without having to stand up. It was fun to build up silly speed on the downhill part though.

We made our way to a brewery at one of the 8 remaining windmills in Amsterdam. Delicious bevs. Then we walked around a park that was also a zoo…at least what we were able to access freely. I think we kind of just rode around directionless for a bit. We wound up at a restaurant for what was essentially a date.

Dinner. More riding. Back through the tunnel.

We returned our bikes at 10pm as the sun was beginning to set. So gnarly.

In the morning, we joined our hostels free walking tour. It gave us some valuable information on the architecture, the canals and a few key landmarks. I love the XXX in the crest of the city. You can find them almost everywhere if you’re looking. Contrary to the belief that it stands for the x-rated fun of the Red Light District, we were told the symbols stood for Old Amsterdam’s 3 biggest dangers: fires, floods, and The Plague. This could also just be an unconfirmed theory.

We met V, a French girl on holiday, who we went to hang out with in a park. The 3 of us walked through the Albert Cuyp Market where we tried a stroopwafel, a Dutch staple. Straight up yum.

Later that evening, Andrew and I met up with Coen, who I traveled with for a bit way back in New Zealand. We had a handful of local brews at a beer bar in a part of town devoid of other tourists. It was sweet to catch up and get some helpful tips from a native. Closed that place down too.

The following day, me and Andrew took the metro for fun. Super clean and efficient system. We walked around a floating flower market that was a bit different than anticipated. We also went to a museum with some photography exhibits. We rounded out the day by going to the Heineken Experience. It was a brewery tour on steroids, detailing the company’s history while walking through some of the old brew facility but with 2 or 3 floors of crazy digital, interactive activities. At the end we got two small Heinekens, which were Heinekens.

We toured the canals and cozy neighborhood streets a bit more before returning to the hostel to eat dinner. We met V at the bar for a few beers and that was pretty much that on Amsterdam.

Andrew and I caught an early morning bus to Brussels to meet up with some college friends to watch Jud’s band play at a music festival.

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In Summary: Thailand

Somebody told me that Thailand was called “The Land of Smiles.” For the most part, it felt like that was only when people wanted something from me. I did encounter one smile in particular that was heart melting. I’m saving those details for the memoir though.

I suppose the smiles could still be a work in progress. Adult braces were popular. Same goes for nose jobs and fake boobs/gender modifications (ie ladyboys). I never had an in-depth conversation with a local about their take on that phenomenon. But the sex culture is so prevalent and open. I think Pattaya is the prostitution capital of the world. I was given a heads up to steer clear so am only able to speak anecdotally. I can, however, speak first hand to how Tinder was sort of categorized based on location.

  • Chiang Mai – Primarily girls working in massage parlors trying to get business.
  • Phuket – “Freelance” aka service girls.
  • Bangkok – Normal Tinder. Decent amount of matches that are pretty much dead ends.

On multiple occasions, I heard people mention so-and-so having a Thai girlfriend. Seemed like a common concept. I’m curious to get more insight on that and the ladyboy prevalence when I return. 

Along with orthodontists and plastic surgeons, 7-11 owners are making a killing. I’m highly considering becoming a franchise member. It would be a guaranteed passive income. In some places, there are stores directly across the street from one another. This is not an exaggeration. It’s a surefire investment.

Other miscellaneous observations:

  • Umbrellas are for sunny days.
  • They cut with spoons.
  • Vendors are less pushy than other neighboring countries.
  • The public transportation system was pretty good.
  • Thailand is a very strange shape.

I wasn’t as nomadic across the country as I would have liked to be. And I didn’t have all that much time to thoroughly digest a place. I missed out on a lot of activities for sure so perhaps I’ll have a longer list the next time I visit.

One of Thailand’s unique attributes is that it provides diverse landscapes and attractions. From the mountains and canyons of the north to the tropical beaches in the south, you could spend time trekking with elephants or boating to a picturesque and private blue water haven.

Wherever you prefer, there’s sure to be a temple nearby. Gold-wrapped and ornate, the wats in Thailand offered a unique Buddha or structure to help differentiate them from one another. Faith was strong and on display everywhere, down to a cashier bowing with praying hands to every customer. That’s what makes the promiscuity and sultry experimentation such an intriguing contrast.

Perhaps my biggest indulgence during my time in Thailand was the food. I neglected to take a cooking class, but I partook in enough street food to make up for it. The depth of flavor was extremely inviting. Curry and Pad Thai options were addictive — this coming from a person who didn’t rate any Thai cuisine before traveling. Khao Soi is a must try if you ever find yourself in Chiang Mai.

A piece of hearsay I became privy to was that tourism seemed to be slowing down. I was there during low season (and don’t have another trip to compare it to), so I can’t offer an opinion on that. I will say that the people seemed to be more confident and audacious. Perhaps that could be attributed to more exposure with foreigners. The integration of western concepts was much more seamless here than any other Asian country I’ve visited. The prices reflected that as well. Whether or not that changes with a fluctuating tourism industry, only time will tell.

By the Numbers

Days in Thailand: 15
Planes, Trains, and Buses: 8
Islands Visited: 5
Massages: 2
Street Food Meals: 12
Temples Visited: Lost Count
THB Spent: ~20,857.01
USD Spent: ~$662.74 (Conversion rate of 31.4709)

You can see my full cost breakdown here.

For those interested in visiting one day, here’s a list of where I went and how I ranked stuff:
(click the top left button of the map to expand the list view)

Favorite Attractions:
1. The Grand Palace
2. Koh Phi Phi
3. Doi Suthep
4. The Marble Temple
5. Wat Chedi Luang
6. Wat Pho
7. Koh Khai Nai
8. Khaosan Road/Bangla Road
9. The Golden Mount
10. The Big Buddha (Phuket)

Favorite Activities:
1. Street Food Sampling
2. Elephant Camp
3. Sak Yant Tattoo
4. Sunsets in Patong
5. Islands Tour
6. BBQ Buffet
7. Muay Thai Fights
8. Thai Massage
9. #9 Night Train to Chiang Mai
10. Tinder Meetups

Lastly, below is my “best of” album. This country has a lot more to offer than what I captured but hopefully I’ll be back when I’m a bit more advanced in my photography skills.

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In Summary: Cambodia

I’m not exactly sure what the right way is to sum up Cambodia. There were highs and lows as there always are, but this country felt different. Maybe it was because I started off doing something wildly sad on the first day. Really, I think it’s because they’re still on the cusp of figuring it out. It could have something to do with the large-scale adoption of western influences, all the way down to American currency. In my opinion, it would feel better if there was a stronger Cambodian personality, or at least a Khmer spin on the foreign aspects they choose to integrate.

There are some really good pieces, but the full puzzle isn’t quite there. Yet.

I found some great places to stay and some even better places to eat. But nearby there was bound to be mounds of dirt or piles of trash. Cleanliness can be chucked into the ‘in progress’ category. Geckos, roaches and rats were seen regularly. It’s something you have to put out of your mind when going to a restaurant. I’m not saying I need pristine surroundings (though the royal palace was a sight to see), but I could’ve avoided a few trips to the can in better circumstances. Although, you know, it wouldn’t be what it is without those elements. A few table ants and a mosquito bite during a meal does enhance the authenticity.

In addition to insect repellant, don’t forget your sunscreen if you’re visiting during the non-rainy months. And remember to budget for drinking water. To say it’s warm would be a massive understatement. Air con was a luxury; a fan was a minimum requirement. Again, part of the experience.

The cultural offerings were stunning to witness. From both sides of the table. The Khmer Rouge history is such an important part of the country’s identity, albeit cripplingly disheartening. Whether it’s recovery from that or general progress, they’re definitely building toward something. Once they get their transit system on track, I think growth will be exponential. I’d be interested to see the difference in 10 years.

As for the main standout, it has to be, unsurprisingly, Angkor Wat. You could easily spend a full week exploring the temples and still have so much left to see. Now, I don’t think a normal person would have the stamina to do it in that heat, but that’s beside the point. I’m having trouble coming up with more to say about it. The collection of structures and carved stone was so vast and impressive that I found myself meandering about. Much like this post.

I can’t finish without mentioning the Khmer people. So positive, so kind. I saw so many faces light up in response to a smile or “Hello.” Hostel staff treated guests like immediate friends. The attitude and character can not only be appreciated, but used as inspiration.

I hope they Seam Reap the benefits of happiness and prosperity. What a segue.

By the Numbers

Days in Cambodia: 13
Tours: 6
Bus Rides: 7
Tuk Tuk Rides: 8
Massages: 1
Temples Visited: Lost Count
Angkor Beers: Lost Count
KHR Spent: ~1,772,148.00
USD Spent: ~$443.04 (Conversion rate of 4,000)

You can see my full cost breakdown here.

For those interested in visiting one day, here’s a list of where I went and how I ranked stuff:
(click the top left button of the map to expand the list view)

Favorite Attractions:
1. Angkor Wat
2. Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
3. Choeung Ek Killing Fields
4. La Plantation Pepper Farm
5. The Royal Palace
6. Phnom Sampov
7. Pub Street in Siem Reap
8. Bokor National Park
9. Battambang Bamboo Train
10. Crocodile Farm

Favorite Restaurants/Bars:
1. La Plantation Restaurant
2. Footprints Cafe
3. X Bar
4. Artillery
5. Cafe Eden
6. Monorom Garden
7. The Lonely Tree Cafe
8. Jaan Bai
9. Pomme Hostel
10. About the World

Lastly, below is my “best of” album. This country has a lot more to offer than what I captured but hopefully I’ll be back when I’m a bit more advanced in my photography skills.